Previous days of the hike:
Day 2: Las Salinas - Las Palmas
Day 1: Hike across Fuerteventura & Travel across Europe
It is a bit of a divine comedy to see all of us trying to get to that “right” place while Covid-19 is spreading. At the Las Palmas airport the loudspeakers kept reminding everyone to have 1 meter of distance to other people. Most kept their distance until queuing began. Everyone started getting closer to each other as if that would make the line go faster. I had arrived to the airport. The eternal public transport supporter in me was dead as I took a taxi to get there.
Las Palmas airport was packed. The airline worker told me my flight was overbooked. As a weekend stoic I had already gone through worst case scenarios in my head. I was still allowed to check in to the flight and go to the departure gate. That felt like a win. I'd be inside the system that way. After lot of sitting in different places I was now sitting inside the airplane. Surely a little scarf would keep the bugs away...
Next I was sitting in the Barcelona airport. In 12 hours I should have a flight to Amsterdam and then Finland. I've got my hiking shoes and almonds and a can of sardines. The airport has filtered water. Life is good.
A word of advice to anyone trying to fly through this shit storm. Buy flights from bigger companies and use their home hubs if you can. My first flight was a joint flight of Vueling, Quatar Airlines, and Iberia. Next one will be KLM. Changing KLM flights has been really easy. In general I'd recommend against flying. It's impossible to control your surroundings so you just have to go with the flow. Haven't seen a single personal meltdown on the airports. Tension is in the air for sure, as expected.
I woke up early for my third day of hiking. 15 hours of light recovery made the difference. My feet still had big blisters but they felt almost pain free. It was time to start gaining some distance. Few more photos of the cliffs around me and I was ready to startheading towards a spot on the map called Urb. El Cangrejo. I hadn't done much research for this hike. I was searching for a surprise. This spot was a question mark but I was optimistic to find some water from there. I knew there were houses and streets according to Google Maps.
The place was a ghost town. A big resort on the hill overlooked the valley. It felt like the most probable place for some water. It had been a major resort at some point. Now the main reception was closed and the apartments were rented randomly. I found an office. Outside of it was a big cage full of small birds. The man inside was busy but was very friendly and brought me several options of water. One option was water distilled through special filters making more alkaline. Magic water that was suppose to cleanse your body. I took some of that and filled my 6 liter canister half full. I should have enough to get to Ajuy.
After 19km of walking I hand't reach Ajuy but I was close enough. It was getting dark fast and I had to find shelter before darkness would take over. I had walked too long. It was a fine balance between running late and plain running. This wasn't suppose to be just a sweaty and dangerous effort to get from A to B. I walked down to a small gorge trying not to fall down. It looked promising. There were plants and even some trees. I found my first spring. The water was oozing through the ground and spreading life around it. A puddle had formed on a small ledge. Goat's skeleton was in the biggest puddle. Contaminated. I did have a filter for this stuff but I wasn't that desperate. Climbing down the ledge was difficult in the dark. Eventually I made it to the beach as the sky had already shown it's best colors. There was a perfect looking cave on top of a 10 meter slope. The entrance was too symmetrical. It was manmade. As I was contemplating climbing up there I saw a pair of shoes nicely put on the rocks. Too perfect. After washing my hands I turned back, climbed past the dead goat and started searching for another campsite. The beach had been too exposed. One side of the gorge was humid while the other side was dry and a bit more exposed to wind. I chose the dry side.
Earlier that day I had seen two military helicopters flying really low over the ocean and the cliffs. I kept hearing their noise every now and then. Finally I was sure they were close. This time I took out my DSLR camera and was ready. Panning with ISO 3200, max aperture and 0.6 second I was able to catch the first one pretty well, considering it was dark already. It flew almost strait above me. The second one was even more accurate. It flew right over me. Too perfect to be a coincidence. I think the military were aware of my location. Too tired for more night photography.
The airport in Barcelona had hardly any people compared to Las Palmas. As I was joking about walking back home I got an email from KLM airlines. It seems that Netherlands as of today will no longer accept any foreigners on their flights. This means I have to start looking for new flights again. It seemed I had arrived one day too late. It was 3.a.m - the best never rest, let alone sleep. I hope lack of sleep and food is good against Corona.